Bali Travel Map

Karangasem has a rich variety of older customs found in villages that resisted Javanese influences after the 14th century. The royal family, related to Gelgel, became independent and in the early 1700s challenged Klungkung. Internal strife led to exile and formation of a rival house in Lombok, which returned to defeat its own family in Bali and the taking of Buleleng. This realm ended when the Dutch subdued Buleleng in the mid 1800s, and a Dutch-assisted rebellion in Lombok ousted the royal family in the late 1800s. By recognizing Dutch superiority, Karangasem remained intact when South Bali was conquered in the early 1900s. After Mount Agung erupted in 1963 the capital changed names to Amlapura. The Puri Agung Kanginan palace features blend of Balinese, Dutch and Chinese architecture. To the south are the ruins of the Taman Ujung pleasure palace; a more intact one is up north at Tirtagangga with swimming pools fed by cool springs and an excellent place to stay. Outside the town is the coastal tourist area of Candi Dasa, named after an old temple on the hillside; across the lagoon is a Gandhi meditation center. Snorkeling around a shipwreck is superb up north at Tulamben. Padangbai has the Silayukti sea-temple and the ferry to Lombok. Tenganan is the only place in Indonesia where double-ikat gringsing cloth is woven. Festivals here and in Dauh Tukad in June - July feature wooden ferris-wheels and ritual battles with thorny leaves. Nearby villages of Dauh Tukad, Bungaya, Asak, Timbrah, perasi, Bugbug, Jasi, Ababi, Seraya, Sengkidu, Ngis, Bebandem and Padangkerta have colorful rituals with ceremonial dance for women and men, trance battles, and spectacular offerings. Beautiful brocades are woven in Sidemen. Winding mountain roads through salak snakeskin fruit farms and terraced hills lead to Besakih, Bali’s most important temple complex. Visitors may only see the huge temple from the outside, but the view is gorgeous and the air refreshing. Mount Agung should be climbed by experienced hikers with a guide.

With Bali’s defeat in the 14th century, invading Javanese set up court in Samprangan and then at Gelgel in the 1500s. An internal revolt during the mid 1600s moved the capital to Klungkung. Strife over the next 2 centuries caused factions to set up rival courts throughout early 1900s as rulers of South Bali were subdued by the Dutch. Klungkung remained the last strong hold until 1908; a towering new monument commemorates the final battle. Most of the palace was destroyed except for the main gate and 2 pavilions Kerta Gosa is famous for its painted ceiling of punishments in hell, animal tales, and an earthquake chart; and the Bale Kambang has paintings of Buddhist lore, folktales and traditional astrology. Artist from Kamasan still paint in the puppet style; a school perpetuates this ancient art. A more recent craft turns to used artillery cases for metalwork. Near the coast is the old capital of Gelgel with the Pura Dasar temple. The beaches at Jumpai are important for purification rites. Across the water is Nusa Penida, former island of exile for Klungkung’s criminals and home to the great fanged - demon and the Dalem Peed temple, both associated with black magic. The island and neighbour Lembongan and Ceningan have caves to explore and excellent snorkeling; seaweed is also farmed in shallow coastal beds. Klungkung’s market is great for textiles from the mountain villages and those further east. North of town is the peaceful Taman sari temple, out west is Tiingan where musical instruments are made, and going east is a huge bridge spanning the wide Unda river. Colorful umbrellas made is Satria line the streets, and is nearby Paksabali village trance battles between deities occur. Off the main road, a huge sand and gravel quarry operates continuously with a blazing furnace. Along the coast is the fishing and salt-making village of Kusamba, where thousands of bats a huge phyton live in the cave temple of Goa Lawah.

The cool, mountainous regency of Bangli was long fought over by rulers from neighboring kingdoms, for here lies Lake Batur, the major source of irrigation water for most of South and East Bali and parts of the north. The ruling house of emerged during the early years of the Klungkung kingdom during the 1700s to which it is related. In the mid 1800s Bangli sought Dutch protection from Klungkung, Karangasem and Buleleng, but by the end of the 19th century it was joining its former enemies against powerful Mengwi to the West. Due to its early recognition of the Dutch, Bangli was spared during the conquest of South Bal in the early 1900s. The steady ascent through Bangli passes through tidy villages and roads lined with groves of Bamboo and coffee. In Bangli town the ancient Kehen Temple is under a huge banyan tree. Celebrations feature ritual baris warrior dances with different weapons, and towering offering fill the courtyards every 3 years. Nearby is the Sasana Budaya Art Center with occasional art exhibitions and performances. The view beyond  the town from Bukit Demulih is breathtaking. An interesting village is Penglipuran, with its neatly terraced street. Higher up on Mount Batur at Penelokan are spectacular views of the active volcanic cone and peaceful lake below. In the village of Kintamani is Pura Batur, a huge complex of temples for the lake goodness, perched on the crater to the soothing Toya Bungkah hot springs at the edge of Lake batur. Hiking up the volcano is possible. The Balai Seni Art Center has spacious gardens and and a library. Across the lake is Trunyan where the dead are left exposed to the elements. Visitors may see this cemetery but not the huge statue housed in a towering pagoda in the village. A rarely held festival features wooden ferries wheels and masked dancers who whip bystanders.