Klungkung
With Bali’s defeat in the 14th century, invading Javanese set up court in Samprangan and then at Gelgel in the 1500s. An internal revolt during the mid 1600s moved the capital to Klungkung. Strife over the next 2 centuries caused factions to set up rival courts throughout early 1900s as rulers of South Bali were subdued by the Dutch. Klungkung remained the last strong hold until 1908; a towering new monument commemorates the final battle. Most of the palace was destroyed except for the main gate and 2 pavilions Kerta Gosa is famous for its painted ceiling of punishments in hell, animal tales, and an earthquake chart; and the Bale Kambang has paintings of Buddhist lore, folktales and traditional astrology. Artist from Kamasan still paint in the puppet style; a school perpetuates this ancient art. A more recent craft turns to used artillery cases for metalwork. Near the coast is the old capital of Gelgel with the Pura Dasar temple. The beaches at Jumpai are important for purification rites. Across the water is Nusa Penida, former island of exile for Klungkung’s criminals and home to the great fanged - demon and the Dalem Peed temple, both associated with black magic. The island and neighbour Lembongan and Ceningan have caves to explore and excellent snorkeling; seaweed is also farmed in shallow coastal beds. Klungkung’s market is great for textiles from the mountain villages and those further east. North of town is the peaceful Taman sari temple, out west is Tiingan where musical instruments are made, and going east is a huge bridge spanning the wide Unda river. Colorful umbrellas made is Satria line the streets, and is nearby Paksabali village trance battles between deities occur. Off the main road, a huge sand and gravel quarry operates continuously with a blazing furnace. Along the coast is the fishing and salt-making village of Kusamba, where thousands of bats a huge phyton live in the cave temple of Goa Lawah.