Archive for September, 2007

BANGLI

Saturday, September 29th, 2007

The cool, mountainous regency of Bangli was long fought over by rulers from neighboring kingdoms, for here lies Lake Batur, the major source of irrigation water for most of South and East Bali and parts of the north. The ruling house of emerged during the early years of the Klungkung kingdom during the 1700s to which it is related. In the mid 1800s Bangli sought Dutch protection from Klungkung, Karangasem and Buleleng, but by the end of the 19th century it was joining its former enemies against powerful Mengwi to the West. Due to its early recognition of the Dutch, Bangli was spared during the conquest of South Bal in the early 1900s. The steady ascent through Bangli passes through tidy villages and roads lined with groves of Bamboo and coffee. In Bangli town the ancient Kehen Temple is under a huge banyan tree. Celebrations feature ritual baris warrior dances with different weapons, and towering offering fill the courtyards every 3 years. Nearby is the Sasana Budaya Art Center with occasional art exhibitions and performances. The view beyond  the town from Bukit Demulih is breathtaking. An interesting village is Penglipuran, with its neatly terraced street. Higher up on Mount Batur at Penelokan are spectacular views of the active volcanic cone and peaceful lake below. In the village of Kintamani is Pura Batur, a huge complex of temples for the lake goodness, perched on the crater to the soothing Toya Bungkah hot springs at the edge of Lake batur. Hiking up the volcano is possible. The Balai Seni Art Center has spacious gardens and and a library. Across the lake is Trunyan where the dead are left exposed to the elements. Visitors may see this cemetery but not the huge statue housed in a towering pagoda in the village. A rarely held festival features wooden ferries wheels and masked dancers who whip bystanders.

Gianyar

Wednesday, September 26th, 2007

Barong

The Gianyar regency was home to Bali’s oldest kingdoms, the Buddhist Warmadewa dynasty in Bedulu - Pejeng that ruled until the 14th century, and another center in Batuan. The conquering Javanese set up court in Samprangan, which later moved east to Gelgel and Klungkung. The area faded in history until the 18th century when the Klungkung family founded Sukawati, a short-lived dynasty that fell with the rising Gianyar kingdom. Rivals from Sukawati set up courts in Ketewel, Singapadu, Negara, Peliatan, Ubud, and Tegallalang which led to decades of warfare. A powerful Gelgel family in Blahbatuh rose during the 19th century. Dutch assistance Balinese courts in the early 1900s. Gianyar has everything from stone carving and daily Barong-Rangda trance dances in Batubulan, jewelry in Celuk, and a uge art market in Sukawati for the best range of souvenirs including locally made fans and puppets. Batuan produces fine paintings and masks; its temple festivals feature rare dances. Mas, Kemenuh, Tengkulak, and Pujung are woodcarving villages, and the Ubud - Pelitan tourist resort area is famous for paintings and galleries. Gianyar town produces colorful woven cloth. Blahbatu has a foundry where musical instruments are made. Performances of trance and monkey-chant dances are held in nearby Bona, home to palm leaf crafts and bamboo furniture. The Budulu-Pejeng area has Bali’s oldest temples, including the Goa Gajah elephant cave, carved relief at Yeh Pulu, the huge Samuan Tiga complex, fantastic statues at Kebo Edan and Pusering Jagat, and the famous bronze moon - gong at Panataran Sasih. The carved temples of Gunung Kawi and the sacred spring of Tirtha Empul are in Tampaksiring, home to bone and coconut-shell carving. Natural beauty abounds with a huge waterfall at Tegenungan and spectacular terraced rice fields at Tegalialang. The Ayung river offers ratting, and thousand of herons return every sunset at Petulu.

Negara

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

Some of Bali’s oldest remains of prehistoric humans have been found in the Jembrana regency. Legend tells that sparsely populated West Bali got that way because its early in habitants were cursed into invisibility fo having violated the daughter of a powerful priest. A ruling family related to the Gelgel house was establishes here in the mid 1400s, but a dispute among its two founders led to civil war and a destruction of the court. For a while the area was considered to be a marginal part of the Badung kingdom, and a prince from Sulawesi set himself up as ruler during the 17th century with little problem. Karangasem nearly took Jembrana in the late 1800s, but Jembrana surrendered peacefully to the Dutch before rival kingdoms were subdued. Most of Jembrana included the forests, mountains, and coasts of the West Bali National Park and Reserve. Visitors must obtain the necessary permit and guide at the park headquarters in Cekik. You might be lucky to see the rare White Bali Starling Bird, or may be hear the roar of the Balinese Tiger, long thought to be extinct. Excellent diving and snorkeling can be found around Pulau Menjangan island, with the Banyu Wedang hotsprings nearby on the coast. Catch a ferry to Java at Gilimanuk port. Close to the district capital of Negara is the temple of Gede Prancak near a river, while further east the Rambut Siwi complex has magnificent ocean views. A large fishing community has been established at Pengambengan, and there is an excellent surfing beach at Medewi. Cloves are grown on plantations in the foothills around Asah Duren. Bigger is better in Jembrana: huge bamboo xylophones of the gamelan jegog accompanies martial arts and dances. Kendang mebarung competitions of large oversized drums are sometimes held. Exciting makepung bull races take place in the villages of Banyubiru and Delod Brawah during the dry season. Joged bumbung groups  with flirtatious dance accompanied by smaller bamboo instruments are popular around Tegal Cangkring.